The Bad Pilgrim

Wednesday 8 October

Until now the only stamps I had in my Credential the ones I’d procured in Paris – my host commented that I was a very bad pilgrim, and that as Orleans was a very important stop on the Camino, I should be able to get one at the Cathedral. However, when I went there, there was no one to be found. A bad pilgrim indeed! I headed to Joan of Arc’s house, as this historic town was her birthplace, and asked if they knew where I could get a stamp. She said she didn’t, but said she knew someone who would know. There was an old priest and nun waiting in the reception area, who tut tutted in French when she asked them – it turns out I could get a stamp right there.

Next I went in search of ‘the menu’ again, but I was a little late, and all choices today were with beef or pork, which I don’t eat. I found a small place offering a plate de jour of Poullet with thyme, and it didn’t disappoint. The rest of the afternoon I spent wander the town, enjoying the atmosphere.

My host was busy working that evening, and had told me about a small Resturant that served mussels, so of course I had to go. The heavens opened on my way, and I was soaked, but a warm bowl of mussels can cure anything. Later I met my host in town, and we cycled together along cycle paths back to Saint-Jean-de-Braye. Such a joy to cycle at night without risk of cars running you down.


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