Love, Death and God

Puente La Reina to Estella
Tuesday 4 November

What a wonderful nights sleep! I was human again. I wasn’t going to rush today, and after a leisurely breakfast, was on the road at about 10.30. Our Spanish friend had left earlier, and the young Irish man and I stopped to visit the churches in town before he sped off ahead. One of the churches, instead of the usual stained glass, had sheets of alabaster covering the windows. It was beautiful – the translucent parchment like stone, let in enough light to illuminate the whole church.

Today I would be walking alone. My feet were painful, but today my head was not. Time to think, time to not think. The great themes filled my head and at times melancholia, other times joy. Love. Death. God. Mostly joy.

Later in the afternoon I was getting hungry, but every town I passed seemed shut up for winter. I saw a cafe that looked open, and as I approached, met up with the group of four Spaniards. The cafe was closed, and they too were looking for something to eat. We continued together to the next town, then the next before we found an open bar.

After lunch it was only a couple of hours to Estella. Walking alone again for a bit, I saw a white cat in the bushes. She came over and wrapped herself around my legs. She had one blue eye, and one green eye. I asked her I’d she was going to join me on my Camino, she obliged and walked with me for a few hundred metered, before I had to cross a busy road.

I rejoined the Spaniards, until I reached Estella. We said goodby, and I went to see if I could meet up with any of my Camino friends. The signboard had four hostels to choose from. I picked one, and when I arrived was happy to be reunited with the older Canadian, the Dutch man, our Italian friend, and several others I had met. Some were leaving for dinner, so I quickly changed to join them.


4 thoughts on “Love, Death and God”

  1. Hi Sally! I want you to know, just how much I am enjoying your posts! I am a Canadian, living in Vancouver and in Nelson, British Columbia. I did the Camino in the spring of 2010, initially planning to start in St Jean Pied de Port, but lured by a bicycle tour starting in Segovia, and ending in Madrid, I started my Camino in Sahagun. I loved every bit of my bicycle tour, the people I met, that special part of Spain, but I am sorry that I did not have the time to do a larger part of the Camino. I am hoping to do just that next year, and possibly using a bike for the first part.
    Enjoy every day! Buen Camino!


  2. Thanks so much for taking us, your readers, along on your journey. I’m loving your posts – so evocative. I hope the blisters are OK… and not getting worse. I had blisters at the end of Day 2 – due to hot weather and a bit of road pounding, when I don’t normally get blisters in my well worn in boots. How serendipitous it is that you keep catching up with your camino family. How many are intent on the full journey through to Santiago de Compostela? Stay well, and steer clear of the whisky!


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