Espinosa del Camino to Castanares
Tuesday 11 November
By morning my Dutch friend had returned, all was fine. Our host was a normal human, and not the serial killer of my imagination. We breakfasted in the bar, then set out for a rather long walk today. The previous night after a few drinks, we had rather ambitiously decide to walk to Castanares. As there were no hostels open there at this time of year, we had booked and paid for a hotel, so we had to make the thirty four kilometers.
Even though it was raining, the first part of the walk was lovely, my brother commented that it was hard to believe we were in Spain, as it very much reminded both of us of the Australian bush. We were starting to look for a place to have coffee, but everything was closed until San Juan de Ortaga. We stopped here to visit the local church, and a coffee in the bar. We wanted lunch, but it was too early, and they had nothing, so we walked to the next town, Ages, a lovely town where we selected the menu.
Along the path today we had an alternative route, the traditional pilgrims path, or an ‘easier’ route. We took the easier route, but the road surfaces were hard on our feet, and we decide that this was just a commercial venture by the surrounding villages, that ‘scenic’ and ‘easier’ meant that maybe you will pass by one of the local businesses and buy something.
Later we had a small hill to climb, but it was a gentle slope, and not too difficult. Rocky limestone ground with low trees and green pastures, we passed a flock of black faced sheep, and continued down the hill. It was rainy, but atmospheric. I was enjoying the walk. In the distance we could see the city of Burgos, but it was too far for today’s walk, and we were all starting to get tired.
As we got closer to the city the smell of the crisp country air started to be infiltrated with smoke and pollution. We neared Castanares, near the Burgos airport, and walked the perimeter of the airport fence. The last four kilometers of the day are always the hardest.
We arrived at our hotel, tired and sore after our long walk, ordered drinks from the bar and went to the room to rest. After dinner we flicked on the TV to watch a Spanish reality show called Adam and Eve. Maybe this is an international concept, but I didn’t know this show, and our Dutch friend said it was from Holland. It’s premise was that two strangers were dropped naked onto an island, and had to get to know each other. It was full frontal nudity… I am not prudish, but coming from a country where Disney cartoon characters have their cleavage centered, it was surprising for me to see on TV. The end of a long day, I fell asleep in front of the trashy TV.