Tag Archives: Eirexe

The Little Lame Boy

Eirexe to Ribadiso
Monday 1 December

Alone in my alburgue. I was beginning to feel like the little lame boy who was left behind in the Pied Piper. Please wait for me. I received messages that my Irish friend and Italian friend were already in Santiago. My Dutch friend, Miss Venezuela, and my Camino Angel would all be there in a day. Please wait for me. I had been walking alone for a few days. Hardly seeing any other walkers. I do enjoy walking alone, but had missed their company.

As well as checking my daily horoscope, I’d now taken to online Tarrot card reading. One of the cards I chose today was the hermit. Alone. Loneliness.

I walked through Palis de Rie and was pleased to see the Spanish girl who had made the magic potion. Another person I recognised! She invited me to have a coffee, but I’d just had one… I would continue walking. Alone. I was starting to get hungry. I’d only had toast for breakfast. I really need protein to start my day. I was beginning to get antsy. Low blood sugar. I need to eat. I saw a sign for Melide, the next large town where I’d planned to have lunch, but the town seemed far in the distance. Six kilometers I guessed. It seemed longer as I walked. I need to eat now. I followed the path into the centre of town, and eventually found somewhere to eat.

I was tired today, and my pace had slowed. After lunch I was feeling sad. Thinking of motherless children, and childless mothers, I began to cry. I asked Siri to play ‘Let it Be’, instead she played ‘Let it Snow’, which made me laugh, and lightened my mood.

I soon came to a small fruit stall that was unmanned with an honesty box. I chose a punnet of raspberries, and as I was getting out my money heard voices behind me. I turned around, and a group of five pilgrims I had walked with previously arrived, a young Canadian, a Korean, and three Spaniards. I was happy to see them and have some company for the rest of the afternoon.

Along the way were many mushrooms on this part of the walk. One of the Spanish men knew his mushrooms, and was making a small collection for dinner. He showed one that was quite orange in colour, but when picked quickly turned blue. Nature is amazing!

We walked together to the small village of Ribadiso, arriving at the lovely stone alburgue beside a crystal clear river. The English Musician was already there, and they were expecting some of the others from their Camino family. I had walked with most of them on and off, as they had all started walking the Camino the day after me. More people arrived, several whom I had met. I began to feel better, that I would not be walking to Santiago alone.

I showered and headed out to a local bar with a few of the group. We met the others and ordered a soup for dinner. After dinner one of our Spanish friends suggested we order a local liquor, Liquor No 43. An almost fluro yellow sweet vanilla and citrus flavored concoction. The barmaid said we were the first to order this for fifteen years. Between the seven of us, we finished the bottle. The Spanish pour is very generous. In hindsight, regrettably.

As we were about to leave, another group arrived, including the young German I had walked with, the Spanish magic potion girl, and a young Estonian man whose birthday was today. They had planned on cooking a feast and had carried ten bottles of wine. Party night!

We returned to the alburgue, and the cooking began in the well equipped kitchen. Strangely well equipped, it had ten sinks. Ten. Four stoves, but ten sinks. I had already had too much to drink, but bugger moderation, there was more wine!

The food took several hours to cook, and by one thirty, was ready to serve. There were very few plates, less than there were sinks, so it was dished up on cardboard. No one cared, as we had already consumed copious amounts of alcohol. The party continued, but I was past my prime, so excused myself and went to bed.

Power Angel

Barbadelo to Eirexe
Sunday 30 November

The days are getting shorter. It was still dark when I had to leave to alburgue at eight. There was no street lighting in this tiny village, so I searched for my headlamp and found my fluro reflective vest from my cycle trip. It was windy, but not cold. I needed coffee. My head was full of cotton wool, I hadn’t had the best nights sleep. Eight kilometers to coffee. I trudged on. To my surprise and delight, I saw a bar open only half an hour along the route. Coffee.

As I was leaving a Spanish couple who had been the only other guests at the alburgue arrived, they were soaking wet. It was raining. I put on my rain gear, and ventured out. It wasn’t heavy, and only lasted ten minuites before it warmed up again. I was feeling much better after something to eat. I had my day mapped out. I would stop again in an hour and a half for second breakfast, then should arrive around lunch time in Portomarine. I had decided I would have a big lunch today, as it seems to give me energy for the afternoon’s walk, and then I don’t need a big dinner. Portomarine sounded like a large town, so should have some restaurants open.

I passed a marker – only one hundred kilometers to Saintiago! It seemed too soon. I arrived in Ferreiros just as church was finishing. The bar next door was crowed with the faithful. They were all keen to wish me Buen Camino. I ordered a coffee, but they had no food. Not far further on was a small shop, they had a selection of homemade tarts. It was hard to choose. I selected an almond and apricot one and wolfed it down. Perfect.

The walk was mostly uphill today, then a steep decent to cross the Large Mino River, climbing again into Portomarine. I looked for a Resturant facing the river, and was in luck. High on the cliff, with a magnificent view, was a glassed in dining room. I ordered the Menu del dia. Steamed mussels with salsa, trout, and creme caramel. The sun shone through the window. The food was excellent, except for the dessert, which came presented in the Nestle plastic cup. They could have at least pretended it was homemade. Oh well, I had had my delicious dessert earlier.

I had planned to stay in a village called Hospital in another twelve kilometers. It was all uphill, but after my big lunch, my pace had increased. I was making good time. Soon I had caught up with a German man, the only other person I had encountered walking today. Strange, the last one hundred kilometers are supposed to get busier. He said he was trying to walk fifty kilometers today, and was feeling a bit tired. I had inspired him to continue, he called me his Power Angel. He said he needed a Coke, but I would work just as well, and help him speed up. We arrived in Hospital sooner than I had planned, and I still wanted to walk. He was continuing to Palas de Rei, but I didn’t want to walk in the dark. I said I would continue to the next open alburgue. He had done the Camino before, but came back every year to walk the last one hundred kilometers. He said he wanted to do it in three days. He told me how Germany was the best country in the world to live, as they have lots of rules. He has two young daughters, and has their careers mapped out for them. One is going to be an architect, the other a dentist. I asked was that their choice? He said no, that is what he has decided. He was very German. We walked for another five kilometers to Eirexe. The light was fading and the alburgue was open. I said I would stop for the day. Before he continued we went to the bar so he could have a Coke, a replacement for his Power Angel.