Tag Archives: Negreira

The Beginning of the End

Santiago de Compostela to Negreira
Friday 5 December

Today I was walking again. Towards the end of the world, Finisterre. As it’s winter season, not many alburgues are open along the route. My only option was to walk twenty two kilometres. I could have a later start. I had arranged to meet my Camino angel for a final coffee. It was sad to say goodbye. I hope she finds some peace. It was a pleasure to share my Camino with her.

©Sally Arnold
Archway to the Plaza. Santiago de Compostela.

I walked out of the alburgue, again passing through the archway to the square below. Again, the piper was there this time serenading my departure from Santiago. Again, I was following the yellow arrows. The Camino Finisterre.

Not far along the path I met up with a Spanish woman. She had done most of the Caminos, including the Camino Finisterre several times. She owned an alburgue on the Camino Portuguese route, and spent the winter, when her alburgue was closed, walking other Caminos. She said The Way was her life.

A group of cyclists passed me, and one slowed down for a chat. I saw them again later when I stopped for lunch, and the others seemed to be teasing the one who had chatted with me. Charming flirts those Spanish men.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Passing through Picturesque Villages.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Stone Crest Detail.

I was a little stiff after not having walked much for a couple of days, and twenty two kilometers seemed a long slog, especially the last four kilometers. There were eight alburgues in town, but seven were closed for winter. When I arrived at Negreira the only open alburgue was at the far end of town. I was tired, and didn’t feel like walking back for dinner. I’d had a big lunch, and was contemplating going to bed. The Spanish woman I’d walked with earlier offered to share her food, as she had too much for one person. I contributed a can of emergency sardines I’d been carting since France, and we had a lovely dinner together.

The alburgue was full tonight, but we had cleverly nabbed the bottom bunks in a small room reserved for the disabled. If any wheelchairs turned up we would move, but unlikely.

Advertisements

Every Story has a Middle

Negreira to Olveiroa
Saturday 6 December  

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
A Dark and Misty Morning. Near Negreira

It was a long walk today. Over thirty three kilometres. Perhaps more, although I wasn’t sure if there were alburgues open further along the route. I started early, and stupidly forgot to have a coffee form the vending machine in the alburgue. Fogginess begets stupidity. It was twelve kilometers until coffee or breakfast. Dark and misty in the valleys below as I climbed the hills with interment downpours. The rain began to abate, and I was presented with a double rainbow. Two pots of gold! The path was not as well marked in this section, and I had to rely on landmarks from my guidebook.  I turned a corner and saw a tree that had grown and formed a complete circle as the two branches had joined at the top. It’s leaves were yellowing, and I thought it rather lovely.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Circular Tree. Near Negreira

Finally stopping for coffee and breakfast I caught up with several others who had stayed at the alburgue the previous evening. They were all complaining of how noisy it had been in the dorm, I was glad of my ‘disabled room’, the snoring was also disabled. I walked for a while with an Irish man who had flown over for a long weekend just to walk this Camino. He had a similar job to me, and led walking tours in Ireland. He said he was a bit of a joke with his friends, as he spends his time off doing walks, mostly pilgrimages, and he’s an Irish Protestant! We walked together until the next town with a bar, where he very generously bought me a beer. After that I sped up, I was in afternoon fast walking mode. I was now keen to get to Finisterre, today my walking was about the destination, and I wasn’t so much enjoying the actual path.

©Sally Arnold
A Lone Tree with a Cloudy Sky.

Arriving in Olveriroa, I caught up with a girl I had met that morning. We were both keen to walk further, but unsure that any alburgues would be open, decided to stay. The municipal alburgue here was like a small village – a collection of delightful little stone houses, one with the reception, one with the kitchen, and several with sleeping facilities. There was a sign to find a bed, and the hospitaliro would be back later to pay. The first door we opened was a large two story dorm with lots of beds. As I had read there were several houses, I thought I would try some of the other doors. I opened the door of the smallest house, and it had one bunk bed on the ground floor, and the bathroom, and upstairs, another bunk and a single bed. We nabbed the upstairs, as it was probably going to be warmer. We were soon joined by a young Canadian man who lived in Santiago de Compostela. He chose the downstairs. No one else joined us, as they probably hadn’t checked the other houses, however the larger building filled up later.

It was freezing inside the room. The temperature on the camino had plummeted in the last couple of days. Winter was setting in. I would be zipping up my sleeping bag tonight. I was hungry, so went in search of food and warmth. I’d only had breakfast today. The only  bar in town was delightfully warm. I was joined by the Canadian, so we had dinner together. He worked teaching English in Spain. It was interesting talking to him about the cost of living in Spain, and life in general. We were later joined by the girl I had met earlier, and the Irish man, who had given up on the alburgue due to the noise the previous night – he had checked into a room at the bar. The camaraderie of new friends again made for another delightful Camino evening.